Sunday, April 9th, Palm Sunday–Dingle, Co Kerry

An excellent breakfast, a nice chat with Pat about his brand new book, and a quiet morning at Duinin House; driving back downtown and parking at the lot on the waterfront again; back to the Dingle Music Store for a visit with the owners again and buying more local CDs; lunch at Sheehy's; looking for the Dingle Record Shop; Murphy's ice cream; looking for an ATM; pint at the Dingle Pub; back to Duinin House for a bit; driving back downhill for dinner at Lily's Café and trad music at the Courthouse

Duinin House

Silver VW Jetta



As with last night, it's after 11 PM before I'm finally sitting down to type up my notes from today and for the same reason–I only got back here to my room about half an hour ago.

I actually slept quite well last night, only waking up a little before my alarm was set to go off at 8:30. I remembered the shower in my room when I stayed here at Duinin House this past July with great fondness. I think it was one of the top five showers I used during my whole three and a half month long trip. Yes, it's not much larger than a phone booth but there's plenty of hot water and plenty of water pressure to get rinsed off.

I also remember the breakfasts here with fondness as well. This morning I had porridge with Bailey's Irish cream and an omelette with mushrooms. I also had a bit of a chat with my host, Pat, and his wife, Anne, about Pat's book which he had a copy of to show me. It's very well done, and his printer did a good job. Pat hired the editor and designer and paid 12,000 Euros for 1,00 copies. I told Pat he really should get his book listed for e-readers with Amazon here in Ireland, in the UK and in the US. Another thing I remembered a bit earlier this evening is that Amazon also does publishing on demand, the same sort of thing Blurb, the company I used to do three books of my photos from my first trip to Ireland, my first trip to Scotland, and the trip I took to Charleston and Savannah I took the summer before Mom died. Once a book is uploaded to Amazon's computers which are in the UK, the US and Japan, anyone in those three market areas can order one and it will be printed just for them and shipped to them.

I wasn't in a hurry to get moving today, partly because the weather was cooler than yesterday and was grey and cloudy with a possibility of showers later in the day. I just kind of hung out here in my room and might have dozed off for a while.

I headed down into town about 1:30 PM and had a bit of a chat with Anne, who was leaving at the same time to go take her daily walk. I parked at the same pay lot near the water and the Tourist Information Office and set out to find the wonderful Dingle Music Store where I'd gone to one of their house concerts last July. Both the owners were there, Michael and his son Dara and I had fun chatting with them as well as buying about half a dozen newer CDs by local musicians. Unfortunately they won't be starting their in store concerts until the week after I've gone home, as Pat found out for me when he called the store yesterday.

I was ready for lunch by then and had an excellent one at Sheehy's (I can't find a web page for them), the same seafood restaurant immediately next to the music store where I'd had dinner after the in store concert last summer. The Sheehys have been in the fish business for generations, and several years (decades?) opened their own restaurant.

After that I wanted to find Mazz O'Flaherty's tiny Dingle Record Shop to see what's new she has from local musicians I haven't already bought. I eventually found it and have to once again state that places I've been are always much flatter in my memories than they are in reality. I think Mazz was having health problems when I met her last year, and had been for some time, and her shop is now only open Monday afternoons so I'll have to go back tomorrow. While I was wandering around I had some very good ice cream at one of the Murphy's locations downtown (they're based right there in Dingle), and when I was hiking on over to the nearest ATM which wasn't all that near and was also uphill, it started drizzling so I had a lovely pint at the Dingle Pub.

I headed back here about 5:30 to hang out for about an hour or two before I went back down to have dinner somewhere. At breakfast I mentioned to Pat that yesterday I'd forgotten to ask him how to turn the heat on in my room and when I came back was pleased to see a small portable radiator here for which I thanked Pat the next time I saw him.

At first I parked right across the street from O'Flaherty's but not only do they not have food there wouldn't be any live music again until Tuesday night. I drove back up the road to the pay lot at the base of the road back up here, only a couple of blocks away from the corner where'd I'd been last night which is also just up the road from O'Sullivan's Courthouse pub which is also one of Dingle's prime trad music locations.

I had been saddened to see that the Old Smokehouse, which is right on that corner and where I had a wonderful meal when I was here this past summer, was again closed and might be so permanently since it or at least the building is for sale. Two of the other restaurants there on the corner were also closed, and Idas where I'd had an expensive but quite good dinner last summer, was closing. I wound up going to a Lily's Café, a small place up the street that's a tiny burger & kebab place where I had an excellent bacon burger but forgot to order any side like fries.

Music at the Courthouse started about 8:45, and I was able to find a stool at a small table where I could see the musicians pretty well between other patrons. They were excellent, a guy who played guitar and sang, a guy who played fiddle, and a third who played bouzouki. I had noticed that Meabh from last night and her recording partner from last summer were playing where I'd gone last night. It looked kind of busy when I was going past so I decided not to see if I could even find a place to sit but came back here instead.

There are two things I really want to do tomorrow, both fairly early in the day. I really need to have someone who knows what they're doing check the front tires on my rental car. There are a couple of tire stores in the area which seem to be further away, but there's a real service station and tire shop about a five minute drive from here and not far from where I was last night and tonight, so I'll do that first. Then I really want to go to Mazz's record store, probably before lunch. While I'm down near the harbor I want to find out if anyone is running harbor tours Tuesday morning or tomorrow afternoon.

After that? If the weather's fine I might drive around the Slea Head loop and although I think I'll skip Dun Beg this time since I was there when I was here in July, I do want to go to the small Celtic & Prehistoric museum again and find the Blasket Island Visitors Centre which I went to on my first trip eleven years ago but didn't go to last summer.

And that's it for tonight.

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